Ice Climbing

Nikokay Shved and Maryam Filippova win big in the Speed - Saas Fee (Day 1)

24 Jan, 2014

Overview:Speed (Men) Nikolay Shved wins the Men's Speed final and Maryam Filippova wins Women's Speed duel. Earlier in the day, qualifications took place for Women's Lead, Men's Speed and Men's Lead. Big upsets of the day were in Speed where Dennis Van Hoek and Egor Trapeznikov both didn't make it past the qualification round.

Live updates
Men's Speed Final Rounds
22.05: Nikolay Shved proved himself three times lucky by beating Nikolay Kuzovlev in the Grand Final.
First he entered the semi-finals when he shouldn't have, only because both Vlad Golub and Ivan Spitsyn fell in one climb each in their  quarter-finals match-up; they were unable to register a combined time and disqualified.
Then his semi-final opponent Vladimir Kartashev whom he faced earlier in the quarter-final fell during their rematch.
Finally there was the scene of Kuzovlev struggling on his second climb in the finals, even to the extent of having difficulty retrieving a stuck stool near the top
Congrats Shved!
22.00: Grand final Nikolay Kuzovlev vs Nikolay Shved.
21.56: Judges review Pavel Gulyaev vs Nikolay Kuzovlev.

21.50: Nikolay Shved has to be one of the luckiest climbers in Saas Fee. Not only did he enter the semi-finals because Vlad Golub and Ivan Spitsyn fell in their quarter-final match up, but now Shved finds himself in the Grand Final after a fall from Vladimir Kartashev during their semi-final duel.
Semi-final match ups

Pavel Gulyaev vs Nikolay Kuzovlev
Vladimir Kartashev vs Nikolay Shved

21.23: Moving forward to Final Round (semi-finals) are Pavel Gulyaev, Nikolay Kuzovlev
Vladimir Kartashev and Nikolay Shved. Shved, who lost against Kartashev in the quarter-finals still has a place in the semi-finals after both Vlad Golub and Ivan Spitsyn fell in one climb each in their  quarter-finals match-up, so were unable to register a combined time.

21.12: Final Round (Quarter-Finals) have begun. Four groups with two competitors in each group. Best combined time on two routes wins.
20.58: Final Round (Quarter-Finals) to begin shortly.

Women's Speed Final Rounds
20.30 And the winner of the Women's Speed duel is Maryam Filippova in a very close fought final. Her time of 29.03 seconds edged out 29.21 second run by Natalya Kulikova .
20.21: Grand final will be between Natalya Kulikova vs Maryam Filippova. Kulikova was able to get to the finals by beating Tolokonina while on the harder right climb, the one that caused problems for so many ahead of them. Filippova beat Oleynikova after she struggled on her second and harder right climb. 
20.11: Final Round (semi-finals). Two attempts. Best combined time wins.
           Natalya Kulikova vs Maria Tolokonina
           Julia Oleynikova vs Maryam Filippova

: Moving forward to Final Round (Semi-finals) are Maryam Filippova, Maria Tolokonina,
Julia Oleynikova and Natalya Kulikova.

19:40: Women's Speed Final Round (Quarter-finals) has begun.
Four groups of two competitors each ready to start.
Two routes and combined time will determine winner.
Knock out format.

18:30: For Lead qualification results, follow the prompts here. All set for the Women's Speed finals which begins shortly, followed by the Men's Speed finals. Lead finals take place tomorrow.

Maxim Tomilov and Hee Yong Park just climbed side-by-side. Maxim leads Group 2 while Park is comfortably placed 4th in Group 1.

16.30: Young climbers such as Yannick Glatthard (Switzerland) and Janez Svoljšak (Slovenia) have put on quite a display at the qualifying round of the Men's Lead competition. They are after all, the future, of the sport.

Svoljšak, fresh from his victory at the UIAA Open North American Championships in Bozeman, Montana, suffered the indignity of a broken axe during his climb in Cheongsong, Korea.

Glatthard who climbs fast and free is currently sitting 2nd in Group 2, while Janez sits in second position in Group 1.
Each climber has 5 minutes and top nine each group move into the semi-finals, whittled further for the finals that place Saturday, 25 January. The current standings for the Men's Lead qualifications:

Group 1
Rank Name Country BIB
1 Dengin Alexey RUS 58
2 Svoljšak Janez SLO 66
3 Tomilov Alexey RUS 75
4 Schüpbach Silvan SUI 45
5 Zhelyazkov Stanimir BUL 76
6 Vagin Alexey RUS 52
7 Lesko Jozef SVK 53
8 Lienerth Radek CZE 73
9 Beck Damian SUI 59
10 Urbanowksi Markus GER 57
11 Cecchini Antonin FRA 51
12 Rahimkhanov Rinat AZE 41
13 Pritchard Matthew GBR 62
14 Zeynali Masoud IRI 78

Group 2

Rank Name Country BIB
1 Duverney-Guichard Simon FRA 42
2 Glatthard Yannick SUI 56
2 Kuzovlev Nikolay RUS 49
4 Petkov Mincho BUL 60
4 Kryvosheytsev Yevgen UKR 50
6 Tarasov Sergey RUS 67
7 Kent Malcolm GBR 72
8 McARTHUR Gordon CAN 54
9 Svingal Juraj SVK 74
10 Straka Jan CZE 77
11 Schweizer Sebastian SUI 44
11 RAYMOND Gaëtan FRA 81
13 Johnstone Steve GBR 43
14 Van Hoek Dennis NED 79
15 Rahimkhanov Ramay AZE 48
16 Pahnavar Mehdi IRI 63
17 Fritsche Jonas SUI 82
15:37 Some photos from Mooser Philippe of

Hello! (Photo: Mooser Philippe (


The view from the bottom of the Lead wall (Photo: Mooser Philippe (


The start of the Lead climb (Photo: Mooser Philippe (


The loneliness of the Speed climber (Photo: Mooser Philippe (

Petra Klingler (Photo: Mooser Philippe (

15.15: Men's Lead Qualifications: Each climber has 5 minutes and top nine each group move into the semi-finals, whittled further for the finals that place Saturday, 25 January. The results so far:

Group 1
Rank Name Country BIB
1 Schüpbach Silvan SUI 45
2 Vagin Alexey RUS 52
3 Lesko Jozef SVK 53
4 Cecchini Antonin FRA 51
5 Rahimkhanov Rinat AZE 41

Click on latest results for live updates.

Group 2

Rank Name Country BIB
1 Duverney-Guichard Simon FRA 42
2 Kuzovlev Nikolay RUS 49
3 Kryvosheytsev Yevgen UKR 50
4 McARTHUR Gordon CAN 54
5 Schweizer Sebastian SUI 44
6 Johnstone Steve GBR 43
7 Rahimkhanov Ramay AZE 48
14:15: Men's Lead qualification underway.
12.45: Lunch Break on. Live streaming of the Men's Lead qualification round begins at 14:15 CET.
12.38: WOMEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION UPDATE: The Women's Lead qualifiers have now been completed with Maryam Fillipova (1), Angelika Rainer (2) and Maria Tolokonina (3) leading. The qualification round also show a good strong climb by the young Swiss Climber Petra Klingler, who placed 5th. Klingler did not participate in Cheongsong or Busteni.
The official final list of qualifiers will be up shortly.
11.45: MEN'S SPEED QUALIFICATION UPDATE: There was heartbreak for Dennis Van Hoek, last year's unlikely Speed champ in Saas Feel who won't make it past the qualification round because of a fall on his first climb. The same thing happened to Egor Trapeznikov, the overall 2013 World Cup champion in Speed (Men), who also fell on his first climb. Both were disqualified.
Alexey Iakovlev maintained his qualifying runs of 13.30 seconds and 14.90 seconds to come first in this phase of the competition,
The final 16 for the Speed Finals:

Rank Name Country BIB Left Right Total Time Next Round
1 Iakovlev Alexey RUS 55 13.30 14.90 28.20 Yes
2 Gulyaev Pavel RUS 108 15.29 13.50 28.79 Yes
3 Shikhrahimov Galib AZE 85 17.37 13.28 30.65 Yes
4 Tomilov Alexey RUS 75 16.31 14.79 31.10 Yes
5 Golub Vlad RUS 90 15.42 16.21 31.63 Yes
6 Vlasov Maxim RUS 89 16.87 15.13 32.00 Yes
7 Vagin Alexey RUS 52 15.19 16.96 32.15 Yes
8 Shved Nikolay RUS 64 17.39 14.87 32.26 Yes
9 Kuzovlev Nikolay RUS 49 15.31 18.27 33.58 Yes
10 Primerov Nikolay AZE 116 16.05 17.57 33.62 Yes
11 Kartashev Vladimir RUS 100 17.36 16.49 33.85 Yes
12 Proshchenko Radomir RUS 84 16.61 17.49 34.10 Yes
13 Batushev Pavel RUS 87 19.76 17.99 37.75 Yes
14 Novoseltsev Evgeniy RUS 94 24.51 14.07 38.58 Yes
15 Kolchegoshev Kirill RUS 99 19.79 19.51 39.30 Yes
16 Spitsyn Ivan RUS 61 19.32 20.41 39.73 Yes

11.30: A snap shot of the Old Wall where the Men's Speed qualifications are taking place. The Saas Fee ice wall is classic ice.

The Old Wall in Saas Fee where the Lead qualifictions take place (Photo: UIAA)

11.26: Maryam Filippova is now in the lead in the Women's Lead. The top three as of now:
Rank Name Country BIB
1 Filippova Maryam RUS 24
2 Rainer Angelika ITA 3
3 Shin WoonSeon KOR 8
Full list here, if you follow the prompts through Saas Fee  → Women's Lead Qualification.
10.40:  Alexey Iakovlev has the fastest time so far in the qualification round (Men's Speed) on the Old Wall outside with two runs of 13.30 seconds and 14.90 seconds. Big names such as last year's champ Dennis Van Hoek, Alexey Tomilov, Egor Trapizneknov and others yet to climb. Stay tuned.
10.20: If you want to see Speed times on the Old Wall outside, click on this link and follow the prompts to the Men's Speed qualification results in Saas Fee.
9:58: Live streaming will mostly focus on Women's Lead qualifications, but switch to Speed, which is taking place on the Old Wall outside, during breaks.
09.30:  Women's Lead qualification results so far. Each climber has four minutes to get to the top in this qualification round. They are judged on a combination of holds reached, clips made and height reached. Many, many more climbers to come.
Rank Name Country BIB
1 Rainer Angelika ITA 3
2 Shin WoonSeon KOR 8
3 van der Steen Marianne NED 9
4 Kratochvilova Martina CZE 2
5 Forrester Katy GBR 6

08.45: Good morning from Saas Fee. Qualifications round for the the 2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas Fee, Switzerland now underway. Up now is the Women's Lead qualifications. Men's Speed Qualifications taking place outside on the Old Wall. Live results and starting lists can be found here.
Angelika Rainer one of the first climbers to kick off the competition in Saas Fee, fresh from her strong showing in Cheongsong where she came third, and second in Busteni.
Note: Speed qualifications which are not live-streamed are taking place in the Old Wall outside.
Starting List Women's Lead
1 Kratochvilova Martina CZE 2
2 Rainer Angelika ITA 3
3 Forrester Katy GBR 6
4 Shin WoonSeon KOR 8
5 Van Der Steen Marianne NED 9
6 Aleksieieva Yevheniia UKR 10
7 Vlasova Alena RUS 11
8 Yagi Nae JPN 14
9 Kulikova Natalya RUS 15
10 Maiorova Julia RUS 16
11 Kosek Olga POL 17
12 Stritch Kendra USA 18
13 Song HanNaRai KOR 21
14 Olson Jennifer CAN 22
15 Juarez Marjorie FRA 23
16 Filippova Maryam RUS 24
17 Bagaeva Irina RUS 25
18 Petkova Radka BUL 28
19 Feoktistova Ekaterina RUS 29
20 Imboden Sandrine SUI 30
21 Koshcheeva Ekaterina RUS 31
22 Gallyamova Nadezhda RUS 32
23 Labarile Vivien SUI 34
24 Tolokonina Maria RUS 37
25 Hrozova Lucie CZE 38
26 Klingler Petra SUI 39
27 Davidova Anastasija SLO 40