UIAA Ice Climbing
World Cup 2014

Maxim Tomilov and Shin WoonSeon win in Busteni

18 Jan, 2014

HIGHLIGHTS: Maxim Tomilov (Russia) edges out Park Hee Yong (Korea) in Men's Lead final while Shin WoonSeon (Korea) beat Angelika Rainer (Italy) in the Women's Lead final. What a great day of competition. Meanwhile, earlier in the day, Men's Speed final results were cancelled due to wall conditions because of unseasonably warm weather. Latest results and starting lists available here throughout the day. Check here for other updates Read More

 
Live updates
 
19:00: As the medal ceremony is set to start, it's goodbye from Busteni, Romania and see you in Saas Fee, Switzerland.
 
 
18:35: What a finish! Maxim Tomilov struggled mightily when he looked like he would be the first to top the wall today. Several times he gingerly tested a shaky hold, and when he made the final lunge to make yet another clip, fell. But he's still the champion the champion in Busteni, Romania.
 
Asked how he felt after his win, Tomilov said: "Tired."
 
After his climb, Park said he was angry but motivated to continue the competition. With a third place in Cheongsong, and now a second place in Busteni, he said was determined to win first place in Saas Fee, the next stop in the 2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup.
 
Tomilov's second place in Cheongsong and first place in Busteni means he's currently ahead of his rival Park in the overall rankings, but it's early on in the competition.
 
Stay tuned as the competition moves to Saas Fee, Champagy-en-Vanoise, Rabenstein and finally Ufa.

For the Russian camp, today's competition was particularly meaningful because they were able to celebrate with veteran competitor Sergey Tarasov, who came in third, and won his first UIAA competition medal.

18:24: Hee Yong Park just finished a powerful climb to cross the the high point of the leader Sergey Tarasov when he fell. Park is now in first place, but about to start climbing is the final competitor of the day Maxim Tomilov. So there's no guarantee that Park's first place position will hold. As usual it comes down to Maxim versus Park, a rivalry that we have seen so many times before.
 
Much of the tension lies in the fact that Maxim, who has been isolation, doesn't know how high Park reached or in what time.
 
18:15: Nikolay Kuzovlev set a blistering pace at the start of his his climb and looked like he had plenty of time to get to the top, before getting tangled up with the rope and falling. He's still second to Sergey Tarasov. Up next is Park Hee Yong.
 
17:59: Sergey Tarasov is still in the lead after slips by previous three climbers including Valentyn Sypavin. Big guns yet to climb.
 
 
17:30: Waiting for arrival of first of eight male Lead climbers. First on is Sergey Tarasov. Eight minutes to reach top with scores based on a combination of high point and time.
 
17:15: There's been a delay to the start of the final competition of the day. Climbers are now conducting route preview.
 
16:30: Men's Lead finals to start shortly.

Starting List


START COMPETITOR NAME COUNTRY TSHIRT
1 Tarasov Sergey RUS 56
2 Proshchenko Radomir RUS 87
3 Novoseltsev Evgeniy RUS 65
4 Sypavin Valentyn UKR 76
5 Tomilov Alexey RUS 85
6 Kuzovlev Nikolay RUS 48
7 Park HeeYong KOR 66
8 Tomilov Maxim RUS 110

 
15:45: A last minute fall from Russia's Maria Tolokonina, the last female Lead climber, means that Korea's Shin WoonSeon wins Gold in Busteni. Angelika Rainer (Italy), who came third in Cheongsong, comes second here, maintaining her grip on the quest for overall title at the end of the 2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup.
 
15:35: It's a measure of Angelika Rainer's calibre that despite struggling with an early hold and almost falling off in the middle sections, she was able to put herself into medal contention by powering her way past the high point.
 
15:27: Lucie Hrozova, who lost time in the middle section of the wall, is unable to top and repeat her performance in Busteni in 2013 when she was crowned champion. She falls and moves to fourth position.

15:14: Shin WoonSeon falls just one clip below the top but powers her way to the lead position beating out Nadezhda (currently 2nd) and Maryam (currently 3rd). Top competitors like Angelia Rainer, Lucie Hrzova and Maria Tolokonina still to come.
 
15:04: Nadezhda Gallyamova, sister of Anna Gallyamova who  not at the competition this year had a strong climb but fell short of the point where Maryam, who is still the leader, had reached. Up now is Shin WoonSeon.
 
14:52: Natalya Kulikova fell as well, which means the first strong climb by Maryam Filippova is still the one to beat.
 
Note: There are 36 moves and climbers have 8 minutes to top the wall.

14:48: Song HanNaRai just had an early and very unfortunate fall. She climbed exceedingly well in Cheongsong and was looking forward to establish her mark on the competition in the same way her teammate Shin WoonSeon has. Unfortunate ...
 
14:30: Lead finals for women are now underway.
 
Starting List
 
START COMPETITOR NAME COUNTRY TSHIRT
1 Filippova Maryam RUS 14
2 Song HanNaRai KOR 32
3 Kulikova Natalya RUS 26
4 Gallyamova Nadezhda RUS 29
5 Shin WoonSeon KOR 31
6 Hrozova Lucie CZE 38
7 Rainer Angelika ITA 12
8 Tolokonina Maria RUS 35
 
13: 15: BREAKING NEWS: Jury head Ziggy Ster just announced that the Men's Speed results have been cancelled due to the unusual and terrible wall conditions. He said the competition will be repeated at another stage of the 2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup. With all those falls in the final round, it just wouldn't have been fair results.
 
13:01 Pause in competition which resumes at 14:30 EET with the Lead finals. See you then.
 
12:57: With Egor Trapeznikov falling on his third and final climb, the Men's Speed finals are over and young Radomir Proshchenko is the winner in Busteni. Congratulations to all competitors who competed under very difficult conditions.
 
12:50: Just reaching the top is cause for celebration in the Men's Speed final. Even Radomir Proshchenko fell which means he's relying on his first and best time as the one for others to beat.
 
12:33: Conditions are getting really difficult. Still, judges have decided there will be a third climb. World champion Egor Trapeznikov has fallen on both his final climbs so far as has a contender such as Pavel Batushev. This leaves the young Radomir Proshchenko who posted a 14.09 second first climb in the lead for first place. The wall looks like it's taken a beating. That's not surprising given the 167 climbs so far today on the wall when the temperature is 10 degrees Celsius.
 
12:21: Among those who have fallen is the leader Egor Trapeznikov who fell at the start, clung on and then fell again near the top. Tough! Still, the competition must go on ...
 
12:04: Athletes have begun the first of their final three climbs. Because of the melting ice conditions, there may only be two attempts each.Many climbers have already already slipped and fallen. Competition now about just staying on the wall and making the top versus time.
 
11:52: Top 18 have just been announced after the Men's Speed qualification round. Unlike the Women's Speed duel, where combined times counted, the Men's Single Route climb is one where the best posted time of three attempts counts. The Single Route was decided upon because of the tough ice conditions which would make a duel difficult.
 
Top three best times so far:
 
Egor Trapeznikov (10.19 seconds)
Pavel Batushev (11.20 seconds)
Vladamir Kartashev (11.45 seconds)

11:47: With unseasonably warm temperatures in Busteni, crumbling ice makes for some dicey climbing conditions as the day warms up! Still there's some good and fast speed climbing going on. Pavel Gulayev just had a real fast second climb, where others fell, but failed to hit the stop button. Had he, Pavel might have challenged current leader Egor Trapeznikov's best first climb time of 10.19 seconds. Others such as Vladimir Kartashev (11.45 seconds) also posted good times despite the difficult ice conditions.

11:20: Speed (Men) qualifications now underway. Egor Trapeznikov, overall Speed champ from 2013, looking good with a strong 10.19 second first climb. Much more to come. Early on.
 
10:30: Pause in competition as we get set for Speed qualification rounds for Men.
 
10:15: Nadezhda Gallyamov (34.90 seconds) beats Maryam Filippova (42.10 seconds) to become the Grand Final winner for Speed (Women) in Busteni.
 
Gallyamov who was 7th overall in 2013 and came 5th in Busteni last year credited her win to the fact that she has graduated from university and now has more time to train. Fillippova had a series of unfortunate slips, two slips in her first climb and yet another in her second climb. With her second place win in Cheongsong, Fillopova is looking good on the quest to be overall champion. She also competes in the Lead finals later today.

10:00:Women's Speed Grand Final face-off for Speed (Women) will be Nadezhda Gallyamova vs Maryam Filippova. 
 
09:45: Despite a great climb earlier Ekaterina Koshcheeva (39.44) is knocked out by Ekaterina Feoktistova (30.68). Final four to climb shortly. Pause in competition as judges review a technical incident involving this climb and times are reviewed.
 
09:27: Final Round - Quarter finals (Women - Speed), the knockout round, to begin with final 8 athletes paired up against each other. Four groupings. 1st against 8th position and so on. All Russian finals shaping up.
 
 09:23: 13 athletes have entered the semi-finals. Looking for 8 athletes to make it into the final round. Semi-finals have begun. Each athlete has two chances with combined time mattering. Ekaterina Koshcheeva had great semi-final climb. First climb was 15.05 and 18.05 seconds in her second climb, even with a slip, put her in the lead with a combined time of 33.65 seconds.
 
09:00: Natalya Kulikova fastest with with combined time of 40.13 seconds during Speed qualifications for women. Maria Tolokonina in 6th place in qualifications with combined time of 43.04 seconds. Provisional results being checked. Semi-finals to begin shortly.